Bishnupur (or Vishnupur) in the Bankura district is like a breath of fresh air after Kolkata’s heat and dust. The verdant fields you traverse to get to this town, just 151 km away, serve as a harbinger of the surprise that is Bishnupur. This town of terracotta temples and man-made lakes echoes with the history of the Malla rulers who made it their 16th century capital.
Since Bishnupur had no stone for construction, the Malla kings built terracotta temples to celebrate their love for Krishna, the Blue God. These temples have elaborate architecture that merges hybrid styles. Filigreed terracotta tiles carve out stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Some of the temples you must visit are the Shyam Ray Temple, the twin shrines of Jorbangla, the Radhey Shyam Temple, the Sarbamangala and Chinnamasta. The Rass Mancha, built like a step-pyramid, is Bishnupur’s most famous temple dedicated to Vishnu.
Another attraction is the embellished Dol Madol cannon, constructed in 1742 by Raja Gopal Singh to keep the Maratha troops at bay. Visit the Jogesh Chandra Archaeological Centre to see Malla-dynasty relics. The Mallas also built huge ‘Bandhs’ or embankments and artificial lakes to beautify their capital and to serve as a protective moat to repel their enemies. These shimmering lakes - the Lalbandh, Krishnabandh and the Jamuna Bandh amongst others - cool the town considerably.
Besides temples, Bishnupur is known for its pottery, especially the lovable terracotta horse called Bankura who is the mascot of Bankura handicraft. Baluchari and tussar silk sarees, bell metal and shell handicraft and the quaint circular playing cards called ganijifa, are other specialties of Bishnupur that you might want to shop for.
In the month of August, Bishnupur resounds with the mesmerizing lilt of the snake charmer’s pipes. The annual festival of Jhapan is celebrated with snake shows and snake fights, to revere Goddess Manasa, the dominant deity of the snake-worship cult. The weeklong Bishnupur Mela brings the entire town alive with a cultural retrospective towards the end of December. |