ALMORA - LOCATION
Almora is one of the three hill districts of Kumaon.
The other two being Nainital and Pithoragarh. It is
the cultural capital of Kumaon. Almora is also referred
to as the unspoilt child of nature. It is situated
on a three-mile long horse saddle-shaped ridge and
is surrounded by four hill ranges – Banari Devi,
Kasar Devi, Shayahi Devi and Katarnal. The three peaks
have temples of Goddesses while Katarnal has an ancient
Sun temple worth visiting.
ALMORA - WEATHER
Almora stands at a height of 1,638 meters. It has
a moderate and salubrious climate. The best season
is April-June and September-November. For those interested
in snow views the best time to visit is in early summer
and autumn. The rainy season is also very pleasant
here.
ALMORA - ORIGIN
Almora was the capital of the Chand dynasty, which
ruled Kumaon for more than one thousand years. One
remarkable fact about Almora is that while almost
all hill stations were discovered and developed by
British, Raja Kalyan Chand founded Almora in the year
1568 when he transferred his capital from Champawat
to Almora.
Legend has it that about 500 years ago Raja Kalyan
Chand, then the ruler of Kumaon with its capital at
Champawat, was riding hard in pursuit of prey on this
horseshoe shaped spur. The hunted quarry saved itself
by taking refuge in a thicket of Kilmora – a
wild bush – and revealed to the royal hunter
the site of his would-be capital. The origins of settlement
in Almora may have been different but the story continues
to hold sway in the minds of many of the locals. Bounded
by the Kosi and Suyal rivers, the local of the new
capital was well suited strategically. Till the Gurkha
onslaught, in the last decade of the 19th century,
Almora remained well protected naturally.
ALMORA - TO SEE
Almora is situated in the midst of the Himalayas,
the king of mountains and abode of the gods. From
time immemorial people have visited this region for
peace, solitude and liberation of the soul.
Almora is a good place to conveniently enjoy the
spectacular snowscape of the central Himalayas. On
a clear day – and most days in Almora are flawless
– you can see forever and almost every peak.
Almora allows you to enjoy the mighty Himalayas together
with ridge after ridge of hills painted in different
hues of blue and green. The terraced fields, the stone
slatted barrack-like village houses have so far put
up a valiant fight against the encroachments of urban
expansion and destructive development.
Almora also has some beautiful health resorts. The
chief among them is Ranikhet (1,829 meters). Ranikhet
literally means queen’s field. It is said that
a Rani camped here once and gave this name to the
city. During the days of the Raj, Ranikhet was a British
cantonment.
There are a number of places of tourist interest
around Ranikhet. Chaubatia is famous for its orchards;
Tarikhet, eight kilometers away, was once the nerve
center of the Freedom Movement. Mahatma Gandhi also
lived here for a while; Majkhali presents a fascinating
view of snowy peaks and Upat, about six kilometers
from Ranikhet, has an exquisite golf course. Kausani,
32 miles from Almora, is situated at a height of 1,890
meters. An enterprising Englishman, Mr. Norman Troop,
developed it as a tea garden. Binsar, about 32 kilometers
from Almora is situated at height of 2,412 meters.
The Chand Rajas used to camp here during summer. It
offers a wonderful view of the Himalayas.
Bajinath situated on the banks of the Gomti (a local
river) in Garur Valley, is an idyllic place. It is
famous for its 13th century temples. Jageshwar has
a group of Shiva temples and is on the Almora-Pithoragarh
road and is situated in a densely wooded beautiful
narrow valley. The temples were constructed in the
13th century. They are a marvel to see for their artistic
beauty and craftsmanship. Jageshwar is among the 12-jyotir
lingas in the country.
Bageshwar and Sitalakhet are other places of interest.
Bageshwar is one of the main camping sites for the
journey to Pindari Glacier, which is situated at a
height of 3,820 meters. Kafni Glacier is also close
by (3,860 meters) and Sitalakhet is the new tourist
resort on the Syahi Devi hill.
Almora has a museum that is a storehouse of information
about the cultural heritage of Kumaon. There is a
deer park on the outskirts of the city. The Nanda
Devi temple in the heart of the city is a must for
visitors.
ALMORA - A FAVORITE GETAWAY
Though Almora was founded in 1568, much has changed
since, but the attractions of Almora have not paled.
Swami Vivekananda included it in his itinerary at
the turn of this century. His famous lectures –
From Almora To Colombo – record that he was
stirred as much by the stark beauty of the mountains
here as by the ocean at Kanyakumari. The headquarters
of the Ramakrishna Mission, for long, were located
at Mayawati Ashram – then in Almora. Gurudev
Rabindranath Tagore spent a summer to get over the
personal grief after the loss of a beloved child and
found the environs salubrious. A little later followed
the great dancer – choreographer Udaya Shankar.
He fell in love with the place and set up a cultural
center here and, for a while, sleepy Almora hummed
with creative energy. Ravi Shankar, Zohra Sehgal,
Simki and the youngster Guru Dutt have all been here.
Others have followed in their footsteps. Painters
like Brewster, mystics like Lama Govinda and scientists
like Boshi Sen. Pundit Nehru had served a term of
imprisonment in the Jail at Almora and has left behind
an evocative account of the pleasures of solitude
and the changing moods of nature in his various letters
written from this place.
AROUND ALMORA
One can visit the picturesque places around Almora,
for sightseeing. Binsar, which has now been designated
a sanctuary, is an hour’s motor drive from Almora.
Binsar hill, locally known as Jhandi Dhar, rises to
a height of 2,412 meters and offers a panoramic view
of Almora town, the Kumaon hills and the Greater Himalayas.
The region around abounds in alpine flora, ferns,
hanging moss and innumerable species of wild flowers.
The brow is reached by an unpaved ridge lined by prosperous
private estate. A walk through the woods comprising
mostly oak and rhododendron forest, leads to a vantage
point at the summit, which offers an uncluttered view
of the Himalayan ranges and the surrounding valley.
Binsar was the favorite summer resort of the eminent
Hindi poet Ajneya.
Way back in 1929, Mahatma Gandhi spent three fruitful
weeks at this charming spot called Kausani (51 kilometers
from Almora) in the Kumaon hills and described it
is India’s Switzerland. Today, despite deforestation
in the area, Kausani can still lay claim to the title
bestowed on it. Quaint villages, orchards laden with
fruit and hill slopes covered with pine trees escort
one into Kausani. In the distance, snow mantled peaks
glitter in the sun and the breeze carries with it
much of the cool freshness of the snows.
All through the day the mountains around Kausani
seem to change in shape and color. Each change provides
an entrancing spectacle and induces a deeper communion
with nature. The Anakshakti Ashram atop a hill where
the Mahatma stayed commands one of the most magnificent
views of the mountain ranges around Kausani. The vast
sweep of the mountain view (simply called “The
View” locally), which encompasses a remarkable
350 kilometers at Kausani, is the central point of
attraction in this little hill station.
All round are gentle walks where a profusion of wild
flowers keep one company. There are shady paths carpeted
with pine needles and in the air is the wonderful,
inimitable fragrance of pine. Terraced fields add
a distinctive touch to the pastoral picture around.
VISITING ALMORA
By Air
The nearest airport is a Pant Nagar (Nainital). Regular
flights operate during the summer.
By Rail
The nearest railhead for Almora is Kathgodam.
By Road
Almora is well connected with all-important cities
by road.
ALMORA - ACCOMODATION
There are hotels, Inspection Bungalows, private cottages
available to suit all budgets.
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