Amritsar is an institution
by itself. And the Golden Temple is the cradle of
Amritsar with the city growing around it nurtured
by its divine sanctity.
Known
for its golden temple, the most sacred shrine of the
sikhs with its holy tank called " the pool of
immortality". Nearby is the Jallianwala Bagh,
where during the British rule in India, General Dyer
opened fire on innocent people causing a massacre.
The place is now a national monument. Its walls bears
the bullet marks of this tragedy
The Golden Temple in Amritsar is the most exalted
of all Sikh shrines, drawing pilgrims from near and
far for centuries. The temple’s story began
some four centuries ago when the third Sikh Guru Amar
Das asked Guru Ram Das (who succeeded him) to build
a central place for the congregation of the Sikhs.
Guru Arjan Dev completed the work started by Guru
Ram Das in the 16th century. The gurdwara has four
entrance doors, called deoris, in all four directions—symbolic
of the new faith that made no distinction between
caste and creed. People could enter and bow in any
direction they preferred.
The Amrit Sarovar or pool of nectar had long been
associated with Indian legends and Lord Rama’s
twin sons had supposedly been taught the Ramayana
here. How the land was acquired for the construction
of the temple has many stories. Some say the Guru
bought it, others say it was granted by emperor Akbar.
Whatever the story, it is certain it was revenue free
land.
Oral tradition dictates that the Muslim divine Pir
Mian Mir of Lahore, at the request of the fifth Sikh
Guru Arjan Dev, laid the temple’s foundation
stone. However, there is no record supporting this,
not even in the biographies of Pir. The recorded account
says that Guru Arjun Dev laid the foundation in 1588.
The Guru’s followers settled down in the neighborhood
and a small town called Ramdaspur quickly came up,
deriving its later name, Amritsar, from the holy tank
that encircles the Hari Mandir, or the Darbar Sahib,
now known as the Golden Temple.
The flourishing town that grew around the temple
during Guru Arjan Dev’s lifetime grew further
in stature as the followers of Sikhism grew in number.
Things moved fast. The first Sikh Maharaja, Ranjit
Singh, made Amritsar his spiritual capital while Lahore
was the temporal seat of his newly founded expanding
kingdom. Ranjit Singh oversaw the temple’s further
development, gilding the embossed plates, renewing
the pietra dura and embellishing the interior with
floral designed, mirrored ceilings.
The Golden Temple is an eclectic monument that has
grown as much of people’s devotion as from the
guild craftsmen’s skills. Generation after generation
has lavished praise on the art and architecture of
the golden temple and it is widely regarded as being
amongst the most tastefully decorated shrines anywhere.
As one descends into the temple (unlike most temples,
here one actually descends as the structure is built
below the level of the surrounding area), one is confronted
by the stunningly beautiful sanctum sanctorum glimmering
in the water of the holy tank that is flanked on all
four sides by spotlessly clean marble walkways and
pavements.
The main structure rises from the center of the sacred
pool and is approached by a long causeway. The 52-meter,
square-based Hari Mandir stands on a square platform,
its lower parts marble, and its upper portion fully
covered with plates of gilded copper. In the interior,
on the ground, the Guru Granth Sahib (holy book of
the Sikhs) is placed under a jewel-studded canopy.
On the first floor is a small pavilion called the
Shish Mahal (mirror room). It is ornamented with pieces
of mirrors inlaid in the ceiling and walls. Above
is another smaller pavilion. Exquisite murals adorn
the walls of the pavilions, but other than that, the
emphasis is on simplicity.
Situated at the other end of the causeway connected
to the Harmandir Sahib is the Akal Takht. Literally,
it means the eternal throne and its building opposite
the temple has a significance. While the temple stands
for the spiritual guidance, the Akal Takht symbolizes
the dispensing of justice and temporal activities.
During the day, the Guru Granth Sahib is kept in the
temple and at night at the Akal Takht. Traditionally
all Sikh warriors sought blessings here before going
for war.
As it has done for several centuries, the temple
mirrors many images that are dear to the devout. One
sees the beautiful golden dome shimmering in the water.
One sees thousands of devotees praying and kneeling
before the holy book. One sees them touch the holy
water and pour it over their foreheads. One sees people
streaming into the langar hall to partake of the common
meal served lovingly to all. Forming a soothing and
beautiful soundtrack to all these activities is the
continuous kirtan (devotional) recitation that has
provided solace to so many.
CUISINE
All Sikh temples have a langar (community kitchen)
where volunteers prepare free meals for thousands
of people everyday. Everyone is welcome. Part of the
philosophy of Sikhism is to do seva, which means service.
One of the ways a devout Sikh likes to do seva is
through community service. The idea is sharing equally
as desired by the Sikh Gurus. Apart from sharing,
the other important aspect is that all are equal ad
everyone eats together sitting on the floor as equals.
The food of the langar comes from donations and from
the management of the Gurdwara. The tradition of langar
is intrinsic to the Sikh faith and symbolizes oneness
of the humanity.
The Amritsaris are a robust, hard-working lot, fond
of good food and very hospitable by nature. There
is never any shortage of courtesy here, no shortage
of helping hands if your car breaks down. And there
is definitely no shortage of food. The predominance
of dairy farming has enhanced the quality of all milk
products, and the lassi (buttermilk) served in town,
especially at Gyan’s is the best found anywhere.
It is served chilled in long steel glasses, sweet,
sour, or just plain and topped with a trademark clump
of thick cream. You can savor truly gourmet fare cooked
in asli ghee (pure clarified butter). It specializes
in vegetarian fare. The legendary ‘Amritsari
Fish’ continues to be a big favourite. It is
crumb fried river fish seasoned with fresh limejuice.
And the rabri (dessert of thickened milk) is delicious!
The bustling bazaars in the city are stocked brimful
with papadums, vadis, and other spices, and the ampapad
(mango slices salted and dried) are something to carry
back home.
SHOPPING
Shopping options mostly revolve around handicrafts
and rugs with prices being competitive, and a little
bargaining being of good use. Woolen blankets and
sweaters are cheaper in Amritsar than in other parts
of India as they are locally manufactured. Katra Jaimal
Singh in the old city is a good shopping area.
PLACES OF
INTEREST
If you take a short walk around the Golden Temple,
you can visit several other Gurdwaras that trace their
links with the Gurus. Gurdwara Baba Atal Sahib and
the Shahidi martyr’s shrine are important religious
centers, each with its own history.
Amritsar played a pivotal role in India’s quest
for independence, and no national monument has more
significance than Jalianwala Bagh, a solemn, grim
reminder of one of the bloodiest chapters of India’s
freedom movement. The 2000 Indians killed and wounded
here in the indiscriminate firing by the British on
Baisakhi in 1919 was carnage that had nationwide ramifications,
shaking and enraging the whole country. Jalianwala
Bagh commemorates the martyrs, keeping the tragic
episode in its historical context. Today, one finds
a small gallery with photos of key personalities involved,
the well into which the crowds jumped to escape the
murderous hail of bullets and a simple memorial at
the site that shaped India’s destiny.
Within an hour’s drive from Amritsar are several
interesting places to visit. Several historical Gurdwaras
like Baba Bakala, Goindwal Sahib, Tarn Taran, and
Baba Sahib, attract the devout. The drive takes one
through the heart of rural Punjab with lush green
paddy fields, tiny villages, and robust farmers.
The Amritsar that greets visitors today is a bustling,
busy city with a distinct ‘frontier’ atmosphere,
nestling as it does within breathing distance of the
Indo-Pakistan border.
A popular outing is to the Wagah checkpost on the
Indo-Pakistan border where crowds throng to see the
change of guards ceremony and the flag hoisting and
lowering, all done with great skill and precision.
STD/ISD Codes
if dialing from India to Amritsar --- 0183 (number)
if dialing from outside India to Amritsar ---- ++
91-183 (number)
