| DAWN
AT DARJEELING
Darjeeling owes’ its grandeur to its natural
beauty, its clean fresh mountain air and above all,
the smiling resilient people for whom it is a home.
Known for its natural splendor, Darjeeling’s best
gift to its’ visitors is the dawn of a new day.
The mountains awaken first with a tentative peeking
of the sun. A steep ride, five kilometers from Ghoom,
or an invigorating walk up a steep incline, leads sun
worshippers to Tiger Hill. The air is chilly with darkness
and damp. To the east, a dull orange sun emerged painting
the sky with brilliant strokes of magenta, gold, orange
and fuchsia. The snow capped Everest, Kabru, Kanchenjunga,
Jannu and other peaks slowly emerge from slumber to
start a new day. The sun worshippers gasp at the magnificent
sight. As the fog lifts in the slowly penetrating sun,
the town gradually comes alive. Amidst brewing of tea,
the sing-song Gorkhali which is the local dialect, rises
and falls like music.
CLIMATE
The best time to visit Darjeeling is
from March-May or September-November. The rains which
start by May end are heavy downpours making living conditions
cold and dreary. In winter there is a drastic fall in
temperature from the summer’s 15 to 25 degrees
centigrade to 2 to 10 degrees in winter.
ETHNICITY AND FOOD HABITS
The people of the region – Darjeeling,
Kalimpong and Mirik – consist of the Gurungs from
Western Nepal, other Gurkhas races from eastern Nepal,
Bhutias and Lepchas from Sikkim and Dukpas from Bhutan.
People from the plains have also settled here. The local
fare is rice and meat curry and momos which are steamed
dumplings, and of course, chow, the locally made noodles.
This generally accompanied by chhang, a locally brewed
wine made from millet or the jaad which is made from
fermented rice. The Gurkhas are staunch Hindus and celebrate
all Hindu festivals with equal dedication. But Dussehra
is the most popular Gurkha festival.
SITES TO VISIT
No visit to Darjeeling is complete without
a visit to Ghoom which is 6 km away from the main town.
The hillock is dominated by the famous Yiga Choeling
Monastery which has 15 images of the Maitreya Buddha.
Belonging to the yellow hat sect, the monastery contains
many ancient palm leaf and paper manuscripts in Tibetan
script. The Museum of Natural History is where one can
see a fine collection of Himalayan animals, reptiles,
birds and insects. If flora is what one enjoys, then
Llyod Botanic Garden is the place of interest. It has
a marvelous collection of alpine flora and orchids.
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is the only
center in India for the breeding of the rare snow leopard.
The Ussurian tigers and the Himalayan black bear are
also among its attractions. Neighboring the zoo is the
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute established in 1954
by the then Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, in the
wake of the conquest of Everest. Tenzing Norgay was
its first Director and Advisor till his demise. A kilometer
from the zoo is the Darjeeling-Rangit Valley ropeway.
Considered the longest in Asia, it is a thrilling ride
with splendid views. If one is looking for souvenirs,
then the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center. It produces
excellent Tibetan crafts like carpets, wood and leather
work. Established in 1959 after the Dalai Lama and his
followers fled Tibet, it is a haven for ethnic Tibetan
art.
PLACES AROUND DARJEELING
KALIMPONG
Across the river, Teesta lies lush Kalimpong.
The road weaves lazily up a steep incline to suddenly
open up to an unexpected panorama. The first sight to
greet the eye is the steeple of the Mac Farlane Church.
Once the headquarters of a Bhutanese Governor, the word
kalim means king’s minister and pong, the stronghold.
It is also called Kalimpong or the black spur by the
locals. However, the meaning that is popularly accepted
is the Lepcha translation of the name which is “the
ridge where we play” as the local tribesmen used
to organize field sports here. At an altitude of 1250
meters, it has an area odd just 3.5 square miles with
an approximate population of 40,000. Its rolling meadows
are as yet untouched by tourism.
Prominent amongst the places of interest is a school,
Dr. Graham’s Homes which was founded by Dr. John
Anderson Grahman in 1900. This has been built on the
slopes of Delo Hill, three kilometers from the town.
For a bird’s eye view of the picturesque place,
one has to go to Durpin Dara, an observatory point atop
a hill from where one can get an awe-inspiring view
of the mighty Himalayan ranges. Numerous monasteries
dot the area among which the Pedong monastery and Thongsha
Gompa are the oldest. Another monastery of interest
is the Tharpa Choling Monastery constructed in 1937
by the Yellow Hat sect which is situated at Tirpai Hill
at a distance of two kilometers from town.
About 4 km from town towards Teesta is located Kalimpong’s
famous Swiss Welfare Dairy. It was set up many years
ago by a Swiss missionary, father Andrea Butty. Cheese,
butter and other dairy products of this center are in
great demand and the quality is comparable to the finest
that is imported. The visit to Kalimpong won’t
be complete unless one spends several hours at the two
bazaars. One on the main road, the other near 10th mile.
It is a unique experience to see villagers turning up
in their local costume at the bazaar on weekly market
days to sell their farm products.
MIRIK
Set in idyllic surroundings, Mirik is
the place for those seeking peace and tranquility. At
an altitude of 1967 meters, the climate is cool and
temperate. The Sumendu Lake at the bottom of Mirik Spur
is the most dominating feature reflecting the magnificence
of the eastern Himalayas. The lake is 1.2 kilometers
long and is fed by perennial streams. Riding on the
colorful boats or crossing the lake over an artistic
bridge, leads one to a charming path through forests
on the other side. Fishing is a popular past time here.
Mirik is also almost completely surrounded by some
of the best tea gardens of the region. It is also the
largest producer of oranges in West Bengal. The orchards
are on a spur two kilometers from Mirik. Tourist cottage
constructed from locally available material have been
constructed in the dense forest and provide all modern
facilities for a comfortable sojourn. The DGHC Tourism
(Tourism Deptt. of the Darjeeling Gurkha Hill Council)
organizes conducted luxury coach tours from Darjeeling
to Mirik and back on the same day during the tourist
season.
WHERE TO GO SHOPPING
Darjeeling’s traditional promenade,
the Chow Rasta, bustles with the increasing tourist
influx and is the throbbing heart of Darjeeling with
restaurants and shops lining the way. It has famous
eating joints, known especially for milk shakes, pastries
and scrumptious patties. At certain studios one can
buy the most fascinating photographs of the snow capped
mountains that surround Darjeeling, and portraits of
locals in traditional attire are souvenirs worth buying.
Walking down a countless flight of steps, past colorful
vendors, one will come to the lower bazaar. It is a
more traditional and lively bazaar filled with a jostling
melee of people.
TREKKING TRACKS
Darjeeling was the first hill region
in India where organized trekking was first conducted
by Dr. Hooker in the 1840s. The breathtaking panoramic
views of Everest and Kanchenjunga have been alluring
thousands of nature lovers from different parts of the
world since then. Treks in this region are organized
through both high and low altitude areas.
The most popular of treks is the one through high altitude
areas across the Singalila range in Darjeeling. The
trek starts at Maneybhanjang (2134 m), goes to Meghma
(2900 m), Toughu (3070 m), Gairibas (2621 m), Sandakphu
(3636 m), and Phalut (3600m).The fourth and last day
is the return trek to Darjeeling which may be taken
along the along the same route or via Ramman, Rimbick
and Bijanbari.
Another fascinating high altitude trek is in the Kalimpong
region from Relli, Pankhasari, and Neora to the highest
point in the areas, area, Rochella (3,400 m). From here
it is a steady descent to Tangta, Jhalang along the
foothills to Samsing. Exotic varieties of Himalayan
flora, bird, and wildlife can be seen along this route.
Low altitude treks are along trails in the lower regions
which are less vigorous and are recommended for tourists
who like to amble along at a leisurely pace. The Kalimpong-Relli
trek through golden paddy fields, the Kurseong-Namsu
trail through tea gardens and the Kurseong-Mirik trek
are the main trails through low altitude areas. For
tourists with less time at their disposal, one day trails
are the best from of treks for viewing the entire region.
The recommended routes are the ones from Darjeeling
to Kurseong through the Old Military Road, Darjeeling
to Singla, Darjeeling to Bijabbari and Darjeeling to
Tiger Hill. The last of these treks is most popular
as once at Tiger Hill (8,482 ft), one can stay overnight
to wake to a wonderful sunrise the next morning.
The best time of the year to undertake this region is
April-May and October-November. It is advisable to carry
one’s own provisions. Trekking equipment can be
hired at nominal charges from the Youth Hostel, as well
as some travel agencies.
HOW TO REACH
There are flights from Calcutta to Bagdogra
which is 90 kilometers from Darjeeling. The nearest
railhead is Siliguri. The Toy train runs from New Jalpaiguri/Siliguri.
There are taxis available from Bagdogra, Siliguri and
New Jalpaiguri. If one has never been to Darjeeling
and believes that real holidaying lies in the enjoyment
of experience, then one should take the mini train from
New Jalpaiguri. Completed way back in 1881 by Franklin
Prestage, the mini train is the best way of traveling
to the old Gurkha station of Darjeeling.
SPECIAL FEATURE: JOURNEY
BY TOY TRAIN
The narrow gauge railway lines fondly
called the ‘toy train’ extend to over 4,500
kilometers mostly in the hilly regions of India. Among
these one of the best known is the 83 kilometers long,
610 mm gauge ‘toy’ railway spanning the
gorgeous terrain between Siliguri and Darjeeling. Nestled
in the serene Himalayan splendor, the zigzag railway
passing through a variety of foliage, linking Siliguri
in north Bengal with Darjeeling, is a marvel of miniature
rail engineering. The train girdles along streams and
tea gardens on the way to Sukana, up a spur of the Singalele
range from where the ascent of the line begins. The
train strikes the first spiral or loop followed by the
second in proximity of the 20 kilometer post, an amazing
engineering feat, practically a double loop, for the
rise from Rungtong to Tindharia. The third loop is about
22 kilometers away and lends an enchanting peep into
the valley below with the Bhutan range in the east,
the Teesta river and its Tiger island in the south-east.
The sensational point of the fourth spiral, the Agony
Point, is reached outside the Tindharia station.
The scenic beauty along the rail line is a thing of
joy forever. From those stalwart sal trees, the railway
track twists in and out of ravines, the tall cotton
trees, the buttressed semul palms, the giant bamboo
all entwined with creepers and loaded with ferns and
moss. There are fig tress, oak and chestnut trees, the
birch, the maple brambles and orchids, some of them
interspersed with walnut trees and laurels until, in
the vicinity of Cheem, the center of the Buddhist monastery
of the Yellow Sect, there is that glorious glimpse of
primroses, magnolias and rhododendrons. This luxurious
vegetation is topped with sublime landscapes of snowy
heights, more than a dozen peaks standing aloft above
6,000 meters – the renown Kanchenjunga and the
mountains of east Nepal, Sikkim and Tibet.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotels abound in Darjeeling. Besides
the International Youth Hostel, there are more recently
opened resorts as well. There is a hotel which boasts
as the place where Jinnah met his wife whom he courted
and married soon after. Many of the old villas and estates
that passed into Indian hands once the British left
have been converted into hotels. Hotel Shangrila which
is built along the main promenade, Chowrasta, is typical
of the traditional pagoda style architecture. It also
houses a travel and trekking agency.
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