FACTS
& FIGURES
Population : 34,083
Languages : Hindi, English, and Rajasthani
Best time to visit : October to March
STD Code : 05641
LOCATION
Deeg is a small town situated in the north Indian
state of Rajasthan, around 152 km away from Delhi. Once
the summer resort of the rulers of Bharatpur, it served
as the second capital of the region. This interesting
town is strewn with massive fortifications, beautiful
gardens, magnificent palaces, and a colorful bazaar.
HISTORY
The Jats, a dynasty that dared challenge the
power of the Mughals, once ruled Deeg. The living testimony
to their rule is a fort constructed during the reign
of Surajmal in 1730s. Surajmal was also responsible
for the development of the town of Deeg. In 1776, the
reign of Jats ended following their defeat in the hands
of the imperial Mughal army under Mirza Nazaf Khan.
Nevertheless, Deeg was returned after a decade, but
it did not remain free for long. It was again seized,
this time by new rulers, namely, the British with their
peculiar style of gun power and diplomacy. The British
set it free not long afterwards in 1805.
SITES TO VISIT
Deeg is in the district of Bharatpur. Approaching the
town, one can see the battlements of the fort built
by Surajmal. This was constructed in the form of a square,
measuring about 274 m. The walls are about 20 m high
and rise impressively, although the outer coating of
plaster has peeled off in many places and shrubs grow
from the bottom of the ramparts.
The entrance to the fort is from the north. An outer
gateway leads to an L-shaped bridge. Inside the fort
is a palace (haveli). This is now in ruins, but one
can still see what was once its entrance, an ornate
red sandstone construction with a pointed arch. The
forecourt was added later and for many years served
as a prison. One can see a couple of canons on nearby
mounts and, at the top of the northwestern battlement,
known as Larkha Burj, another canon lies on its side
discarded.
It is from the top of the western wall of the fort
that one may view the palace below, built beyond a pond—the
Rup Sagar—and alongside the former Purana Mahal.
The entrance is to the north. Known as the Singh Pol,
it is ornately but simply carved with a couple of lions
above the gateway. This building apparently dates from
a later period, but was never finished.
Once through it, one is at the edge of the gardens
that are built in the char-bagh style, essentially four
separate gardens around the same center. The style of
both the gardens and buildings are from the Mughal period
and yet with a distinctive flavor—a result of
the Jats’ own aesthetic vision that flourished
at a time when the Mughal architecture started to deteriorate.
The most striking feature is the fountains numbering
about 500. One can see the bases of these sticking up
all around the palace, but unless one visits on a Saturday
in August, one is unlikely to see the water display
operational for it requires a great amount of water.
This builds up during the monsoon and is collected in
a huge tank at the top of one building that can be seen
almost directly opposite the entrance.
It is from the tank that, when the sluices are open,
the water flows down and out of the many fountainheads
below. These can be seen all around the garden area.
A full tank takes only a few hours to empty and about
a week to fill. This was achieved by means of bullocks
that brought up the water in leather buckets through
special chutes at the side of the tower.
The main building in the complex is the Gopal Bhawan,
which was the actual residence of the Raja. Here one
can see a spacious hall where the Raja was able to greet
and address guests while upstairs were the Royal apartments.
These can still be seen as they were when used; in one
room, there is a raised elliptical dining table, while
at the back there is a dining room in the western style.
From the Gopal Bhavan, one can have a good view of
the char-bagh. A marble archway forms the support for
a hindola (swing). Inscribed on the base is the name
of the seventeenth-century Mughal ruler, Shah Jahan.
Beyond the Gopal Bhawan is the Suraj Bhawan. This houses
its own fountains and is remarkable for its plant decorations
on marble slabs that were probably looted from Agra.
Other parts of this building also appear to have been
taken from other Mughal residences.
On either side of the Suraj Bhawan are two detached
pavilions, Sawan and Bhadon, which are designed to look
like pleasure barges. During the rains, they allow water
to fall down a specially carved chute and later out
onto a verandah in a charming display.
The meeting hall (Kisan Bhawan) lies in the southeastern
corner of the complex and sports a series of fountains
on its terrace. Here the Raja would discuss with advisors
and some affairs of state were debated and decided upon.
As elsewhere, one can see the use of Persian carpets.
The other bhawans are the wrestling hall (Nandi Bhawan)
and the Kesav Bhawan, a place for members of the public
to air their views. This building, situated on the edge
of the Rup Sagar, is surrounded by a row of small and
larger fountains and now has a support in the middle
to prevent it from collapsing.
SITES NEARBY
Bharatpur, 32 km from Deeg, is famous
for its bird sanctuary. Many species of migratory birds,
including Siberian cranes, come to Bharatpur during
winter.
Around 35 km from Deeg is Mathura, one of the most
sacred places for Hindus. It is considered the birthplace
of Lord Krishna.
Alwar is 75 km from Deeg. It was once the capital of
a princely state. Surrounded by a wall, the city has
several sites to visit, including the 14th-century tomb
of Tarang Sultan, a picturesque lake, a museum, and
several ancient mosques.
FAIRS AND FESTIVALS
All the major festivals of north India
and Rajasthan are celebrated in Deeg including Teej,
Diwali, and Gangaur (festival in which women invokes
Parvati, wife of Shiva).
HOW TO REACH
Deeg is an easy day trip from Bharatpur,
Agra, or Delhi by road. Bharatpur is also the nearest
railway station from where one can take trains to Delhi,
Jaipur, and Mumbai. Nearest airhead is Agra (54 km).
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