Two
and a half millennia after the Buddha walked on earth,
Another walks in his foot steps” – Welcome
to Dharamshala, the land of Dalai Lama, a charming little
town with elegant bungalow. Dharamshala enjoys the unique
distinction of being the chosen home of the spiritual
and temporal head of the Tibetan people
LOCATION
Set against the magnificent backdrop
of the towering Dhauladhar ranges, which rise up to
more than 4000 meters, Dharamshala, which literally
means The Holy Refuge, lies perched up on the high slopes
in the upper reaches of the Kangra valley. Founded in
1855, it is one of the 80 hill resorts developed in
the seventeenth century by the British to beat the heat
and dust of the sweltering plains.
BLEND OF CULTURES
The colonial origin, the Tibetan influence and
the Kangra air make an invigorating cocktail with a
unique blend. Dharamshala stands out amongst the other
hill-stations of India. It is also an archetypal getaway
for the jaded city souls with thatched cottages nestling
amidst thick coniferous forests. As one looks up, the
green fringes merge with the snow-clad mountains and
as your eyes shift downwards, the vast panorama of the
Kangra valley embraces you. It is a no holds barred
battle of the eye with the scenery and one wonders how
much the eyes can behold this quiet rhapsody of the
nature.
Is it a tale of two cities? The town is divided in
flesh and soul into two halves, each with its own character.
The lower Dharamshala is the main town at 1250 meters.
The upper Dharamshala or McLeod Ganj from Dharamshala
by road, it is a 10 kilometers drive, which takes almost
the same time as you would, walking up the steep path.
The only reason that you would like to visit lower Dharamshala
would be to see the Kangra Art Museum, which has a treasure
trove of the art and crafts of region.
The vestiges of the Raj dot the town – foremost
is the church of St. John in the wilderness. There is
a well-maintained, old graveyard. It reminds one of
other old graveyards in hill-stations like Mussoorie
and Shimla. These are perhaps the only peaceful places
left in the hustle and bustle of these touristic places
and your best bet if you are looking for peace!
LITTLE LHASA
McLeodGanj – the Little Lhasa
is thick with the Tibetan cultural feel. It is an altogether
different world where the crisp breeze is broken by
chanting of the hymns along with the tinkling of the
prayer wheels. The place was once full of hippies who
have since moved out with the crowds inundating the
town. For a research scholar, McLeodGanj offers a host
of possibilities and to the not-so-scholarly souls,
a cultural bonanza awaits.
First lets look at what has McLeodGanj got to offer
to the hungry palette and then we will look into spiritual
stuff! The Tibetan run restaurants give you an ample
respite from dal, chapatti and rice that you get in
most other places. If you are fond of momos, thukpa,
and the likes, you have come to the right place. Tsongkha
Restaurant, Yak Restaurant, Snowland and Shangrila are
some of the place, which serve excellent food. A constant
flow of Westerners has brought in its wake a number
of restaurants and eateries, which offer the kind of
food that is not so commonly available in India.
ABODE OF THE DALAI LAMA
But Dharamshala is better known as Dalai
Lama’s abode and Tibet’s Government-in-exile
after the Chinese invasion of Lhasa in October 1959.
Needless to say, a visit to Dharamshala would be considered
irreverent without a peek into the various monasteries
dotting the hillsides. A visit to the Namgyal Monastery,
ensconcing the Center of Tibetan Studies is nothing
short of mandatory. ‘Tsuglagkhang’, opposite
the Dalai Lama’s residence reminds one of Lhasa
– it contains large gilded bronzes of the Buddha,
Avalokiteswara and Padmasambhava.
The other places of interest are the Museum at the
Nechung Monastery which is three kilometers downhill
on the way to Dharamshala and the Norbulingka Institute
which has become a major center of learning. You could
see young artists learning Thangka Painting.
When the Dalai Lama is in residence, he heads the prayers.
For an audience with the Dalai Lama who is also believed
to be the reincarnation of Buddha, special permission
needs to be taken with a proper request in writing at
the security office near Hotel Tibet. The best time
to see his him is after the Tibetan New Year, which
falls in March. The living deity gives spiritual discourses
for 10 days.
The hotels and guest houses are all full at this time
of the year when Dharamshala is at its colorful best.
If you really want to savor the place, the best thing
to do is to stay at a family run place. Himachal Tourism
also runs a few comfortable rest houses to suit all
budgets.
If one is into meditation, there are a number of classes
held by monks for the beginners, as well as advance
practitioners. Tushita Meditation Center is one such
outfit, which offers clean residential accommodation
as well. There are also a number of alternate medicine
doctors in the little town. It is not unusual to find
monks from the Western countries.
AROUND DHARAMSHALA
After satisfying your palette and your
soul, you could go out for a nice long walk or an arduous
trek. Bhagsunath, three kilometers away is an easy option
after momos and beer. There is a temple, a spring and
also a waterfall. Dal Lake is a major disappointment,
as it does no justice to its name. An annual fair is
held here in the month of September. It is worthwhile
walking up to Naddi, which offers a splendid view of
the Dhauladhar ranges. If you are adventurous enough,
the Mountaineering Institute can organize treks, rock
climbing and rappelling. They normally would like to
do this for groups of 10 or above.
However, the best thing about Dharamshala is the easygoing
pace, the peaceful expression on everybody’s face.
It is a place where you would like to do the ordinary
things in life, where you would like to let yourself
loose and forget about hectic schedules and maddening
self imposed deadlines!
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