Tucked
away among the Palani Hills in Tamilnadu, in South India,
and jealously guarded like a prized jewel by the dark
forests, is Kodaikanal. In fact, the name itself means
‘gift of the forest’ in Tamil. A more appropriate
and evocative name could not have been imagined for
this quaint, unspoilt little hill station, where the
air is intoxicating, the scenery breathtakingly beautiful,
and a serenity seldom found in other hill stations.
Cradled in the southern crest of the upper Palani Hills,
in the Western Ghats, 120 km from Madurai, Kodaikanal
is located 2133 m above sea level. Founded by American
missionaries in 1845, Kodaikanal is steeped in history.
Relics and artifacts of the Paliyans who once lived
in these hills can still be seen in the Shenbaganur
Museum. Even today, a few Paliyans can be seen near
Kukal Cave. In the early days, there were no roads—people
had to travel by bullock-cart and palanquin, braving
the dangers of the forests. Slowly Kodaikanal developed,
missionaries established church properties, many of
the then ruling princes built summer holiday-homes,
clubs were opened, school and hotels were built, and
civic amenities were introduced.
THE TOWN
Driving into Kodaikanal from Palani
is a dramatic experience, reminiscent in parts of the
drive up the Ghat road from Kallar to Ooty. It is a
relief to leave the hot, dusty plains behind and drive
up into the cool hills. The vegetation changes gradually
from palm-fringed paddy fields to wild brush with flaming
blossoms to plantations interspersed with stately silver
oaks. The view of the Amaravathi Dam, a shimmering sapphire
sheet of water is an unforgettable sight. Driving higher,
banana trees give way to tall eucalyptus trees, and
the whole countryside is dotted with wildflowers in
jeweled colors, magenta and purple predominating. There
is a marked nip in the air, as one reaches for one’s
cardigan, or shawl. At a bend in the road, the shimmer
and roar of the Silver Cascade waterfall welcome the
tourist.
Arriving in Kodai town, one is greeted by orchards
of pear trees with their graceful branches silhouetted
in artistic curves against the evening sky like stark
Zen etchings. Buildings with gabled roof dot the skyline.
Broken fragments of light from the setting sun are caught
and kindled in the wind-rippled water appearing like
a myriad lamp floating on the lake. Soon, as though
on cue, lights start twinkling all over the hillside,
and even the stars pick up the message, and heaven and
earth are a riot of light, as though beaming messages
of goodwill to each other.
PLACES TO VISIT
The Kodai Club gives the impression
of stepping back into colonial India. The lounge with
its period fireplace, the piano, the Leigh Hunt prints,
the library stocked with books by Evelyn Waugh, Anthony
Trollope, and the bar with stuffed heads of bison, tigers,
deer-horns, and a picture of the Laughing Cavalier by
Franz Hals, the restaurant with old English plates,
a glowing hearth-fire, and landscape prints, are all
British legacies. Cinnereras and primulus add to the
English atmosphere, and again one is struck by the predominance
of the lilac-purple theme. The dinner consisting of
steaming mulligatawny soup, roast chicken and potatoes,
and apple pie, is a further British legacy.
As one relaxes in the comfortable chamber of the Kodaikanal
Club, a cheerful log fire dances a tableau of flame
and shadow on the hearth, keeping out the chill of the
night.
One wakes up with an air of expectancy refreshed after
a good night’s sleep. The tree-fringed lake greets
one in the crisp early morning. One realizes that the
lake is the cool heart of Kodaikanal. It is the legacy
of the then Collector, Sir Vere Livinge, who formed
it by damming the valley where three streams flowed.
It spreads over an area of 60 acres and is skirted by
a three-mile tarred road. There is a Boat Club and a
public ferry.
Just across the Kodaikanal Club is the Kodaikanal School—an
imposing campus of verdant manicured lawns, dignified
trees and solid stone buildings. This coeducational,
English medium boarding school offering a pre-university
curriculum in 12 grades, prepares students for entrance
to Indian and worldwide colleges and universities through
the Kodaikanal School Diploma. Selected students are
prepared to write the external exams of the International
Baccalaureate, based in Geneva. More than 30 nationalities
are represented in the school community of students
and staff. On the wall of the principal’s outer
office is a plaque emblazoned with an appropriate quotation
from the French philosopher Teihard de Chardin: “Joy
is the infallible sign of the presence of god.”
Almost cheek by jowl with the Kodaikanal School is
the Lutheran Church—a Gothic stone building with
stained glass windows and modern paintings and batiks
portraying scenes from the life of Christ. Nearby is
an even more famous church—Christ the King Church—again,
a very Gothic and solemn granite structure with stained
glass windows.
The names of the buildings in Kodaikanal are very evocative:
‘Loch End’ and ‘Mansarovar’—these
two houses by the lakeside bridge the time span from
colonial times to the present; Hillbrook, Furzbank,
Wood-cote, Whispering Pines, and Rock Cottage—all
conjure up the beauty and spirit of their natural ambience.
Jacaranda trees burst out in purple profusion, as though
singing hosannas to the skies. Magnolia trees guard
their ‘escaping’ fragrance, while cherry
trees sweep in graceful pink arcs.
On the east side of the lake is Bryant’s Park,
named after the forest officer who planned its layout
around the turn of the century. Beautiful pine and eucalyptus
trees grow here. There is one ancient eucalyptus tree
dating back to 1846, which is 250 feet high and 10 feet
wide. The well-laid out gardens contain many annuals
and perennials like azaleas, watsonias, dahlias, stock,
primulas, fusschias, asters, etc. Many exotic varieties
of orchids are housed in the Orchid House. Walking along
the lotus pond, the memory of a verse learnt in childhood
comes to mind:
Four ducks
on a pond,
A grass bank beyond,
White clouds on the wing;
What a little thing
To remember for years,
To remember with tears.
About a kilometer from the lake is Coaker’s Walk,
named after St. Coaker of the Royal Engineers, offering
a fantastic view of the plains and the distant hills.
There is a rugged pristine beauty about these vistas,
and the mist rising in veils from the valley below,
gives the place an unreal quality.
Driving along the cool green darkness with the trees
making a canopy overhead, one reaches Green Valley View.
Gnarled cypress roots make a natural crazy path to the
sheer drop of 1,000 feet that overlooks the Vaigai Dam.
Clouds are banked like snow, and violet haze envelopes
the distant hills. Here too, the mist rises from the
valley, imparting a solemn, out-of-this-world beauty
to the scene. The exclusive Kodai Golf Club is very
near Green Valley View.
Past the Golf Club is the 114-acre Golf Links, another
colonial legacy—an undulating green velvet carpet.
Thick woods line the road leading to the Pillar Rocks.
These are three vertical pillars standing shoulder to
shoulder measuring 112 m. The ground drops sheer below
them, creating a dramatic impact and affording a stupendous
view of the valley below. Soon mists wrap up the pillars
in mystery and one wonders whether they are real, or
whether they were a figment of one’s imagination.
Then the sun melts the mists away and the rocks rise,
solemn and majestic, dappled in sun and shadow: the
effect is ethereal and awe-inspiring.
The abundance of pear orchards is a striking feature
of the Kodaikanal landscape. Here and there, a solitary
snowy blossom seems to peep out tentatively to reconnoiter
the weather conditions, and one has a hint of the profusion
of pear blossoms to follow, when the branches would
be heavy with their own blooms, leaving scant room for
leaves.
A sheer lacy curtain of water, so aptly named ‘Fairy
Falls,’ is nearby. About five and a half km from
the lake is the Shenbaganur Museum, maintained by the
Sacred Heart College, a Theological Seminary founded
in 1895. The stuffed-birds and the butterfly collection
are remarkable. The archeological collection is meticulously
documented. One can see the implements and the burial
urns of the Paliyans here. One of the best orchidariums
in the country, with more than 300 species of orchids,
is also located on the premises of Sacred Heart College.
PLACES NEARBY
There are several excursion spots in
and around Kodaikanal.
Dolphin’s Nose, located about eight km from the
lake, is a flat projecting rock from where one can have
a breathtaking view of the yawning chasm below.
The Perumal Peak, about 11 km from Kodaikanal, is a
trekker’s delight. Climbers begin their ascent
from the Neutral Saddle.
Berijam Lake supplies drinking water to Periyakulam
town, and is 21 km from Kodaikanal (beyond the Pillar
Rocks). It is a popular picnic spot with a beautiful
view.
Kukal Cave, 40 km from Kodaikanal, is a favourite camping
site for trekkers. Reportedly, descendants of the Paliyans
still live here.
GETTING THERE
The nearest airport is Madurai, 120
km away. It is well connected to other airports.
The nearest railhead is Kodai Road Railway Station,
which is 80 km away.
Kodaikanal is connected by road with important towns.
Regular bus services are available from Madurai, Palani,
Kodaikanal Road, Theni, Dindigul, Tiruchirapalli, Kumuli
(Thekkady) and Coimbatore. Additional buses ply during
the season. Rates are very reasonable.
WHERE TO STAY
Kodaikanal offers good accommodation
facilities to the tourists. The TTDC-run Hotel Tamilnadu
on Fern Hill Road and Carlton Hotel, near the Lake Road,
are two top-end hotels. Hotel Clifton, Hotel Garden
Manor, Yagappa International Tourist Lodge, Kohinoor
Circuit House, etc., are some other hotels where comfortable
accommodation is provided to tourists.
WHERE TO EAT
Besides the restaurants attached to
the hotels, there are a number of small restaurants
in Kodaikanal that provide snacks and meals at reasonable
rates.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Taxis are available during the tourist
season. Pandayan Roadways Corporation arranges sightseeing
trips on demand. There are no auto-rickshaws in Kodaikanal.
SPORTS AT KODAIKANAL
The Golf Club is located five km from
the lake.
Boating and angling facilities are available at the
lake.
Picturesque trek routes are available in and around
Kodai. For details, please contact: The Trek Director,
Department of Tourism, Government of Tamilnadu, Madras,
Tel: 29111-296.
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