| FACTS
& FIGURES
Population : 13,300
Languages : Tamil & English
Best time to visit : October to March
STD code : 04114
LOCATION
The temple city of Mahabalipuram (also
Mamallapuram) is situated just 60 km off Chennai on
the Bay of Bengal coast in the south Indian state of
Tamil Nadu. It extends from latitude 12°37’
in the North to longitude 80°14’ in the East.
The city is well connected through a network of roads
from Chennai and other important cities of South India.
CLIMATE
The climate of Mahabalipuram remains
hot and sultry throughout the year with a maximum temperature
of 35°C and a minimum of 19°C. The best time
to visit this place is during October to March. One
is advised to avoid the monsoon period.
PAST
Mahabalipuram is one of history’s
intriguing enigmas. The ancient Mamallapuram, as Mahabalipuram
was formerly known, was flourishing port town of the
Pallava rulers of south India who chiseled in stone
a fabulous “open-air museum” of sculpture
under the vault of a burning sky. Apart from this, nothing
is known of the place. What was the purpose behind this
whole exercise, and, more important, why all the royal
patronage this place enjoyed suddenly disappeared, no
one actually has any answer.
Experts say that there were seven pagodas or temples
on the shores of Mahabalipuram. All but one were pillaged
by the rapacious sea, though there is little underwater
evidence to substantiate their existence.
Most of the temples and rock carvings of this place
were built during the reigns of Narsinha Varman I (AD
630–668) and Narsinha Varman II (AD 700–728).
Though the initial kings of Pallava dynasty were followers
of Jainism, the conversion of Mahendra Varman (AD 600–630)
to Shaivism led most of the monuments to be related
with Shiva or Vishnu.
SITES TO VISIT
The Varaha Cave, a small rock-cut mandapam
(hall), is a faceted and finished gem with four panels
of the famous Pallava doorkeepers who wear an expression
of “pious rapture,” as Heinrich Zimmer,
a leading expert on Mahabalipuram put it. There is about
them a mood of contemplative reverie, a lyrical softness
and subtle grace totally at variance with the primordial
machismo their role as guards of the gods imposes on
them.
Feeble sunlight glimmers on panels of enduring beauty
in the Mahishamardini Cave. The Somaskanda sculpture
radiates peace, power and wisdom while Lord Vishnu in
omniscient repose is a masterpiece of dhwani (the art
of suggestion) perfected by the Pallava sculptor.
Arjuna’s Penance, perhaps the world’s largest
bas-relief, is the universe itself in stone, throbbing
with a vastness of conception. Legend has it that King
Bhagiratha had to bring down to earth the celestial
Ganga to purify and redeem the cursed souls of his ancestors.
But the river in its torrential plunge would inundate
the earth, and so he had to undergo a penance to propitiate
Shiva who finally received the flood in his matted locks
and let it trickle down. This was a sight for the world’s
creatures to see and they gathered round. The cleft
in the rock depicts the descent of Ganga, a theory supported
by the ruins of a stone water tank on the hill. There
is a forest with tribal people and all forms of animal
life, just as they would appear in their habitat. Women
clothed in an aura of ineffable grace, a rich inner
beauty transfiguring the plainest of them. The whole
scene has a delicate edge of humor. Juxtaposed against
the ascetic is a cat doing rigorous penance too, eyes
firmly shut, even to the delectable mice scampering
around within easy reach.
The five rathas (chariots) are architectural precursors
of the temples of south India. The smallest and the
simplest is the Draupadi ratha and the largest is the
multi-storeyed Dharmaraja ratha scoped from a monolithic
rock. These small, unfinished shrines ravaged by war
and weather are things of undiminished beauty.
However, it is the Shore Temple that evokes the spell
of Mahabalipuram. A three-in-one abode of god—a
Vishnu temple sandwiched between two Shiva temples—it
is a visual delight, its precincts abounding in architectural
masterpieces.
The Sculpture Museum in East Raja Street contains more
than 3,000 sculptures by the local artisans, made in
wood, metal, brass, and cement.
SITES NEARBY
About 5 km north of Mahabalipuram is
Tiger Caves, a rock-cut shrine, possibly dating from
7th century.
Tirukkalikundram, around 14 km from Mahabalipuram,
is a pilgrimage center. The place has a hilltop temple
dedicated to Lord Shiva.
An ideal place for water sports, Muttukadu is 21 km
from Mamallapuram. The Tamil Nadu Tourism Development
Corporation (TTDC) has a boathouse here. Visitors can
enjoy boating, canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing.
The Dakshina Chitra of Madras Craft Foundation here
has replica of an old agricultural house of Tamil Nadu,
replica of Kanchipuram weavers house and replicas of
ancient houses presenting the lifestyle of South India.
FAIRS AND FESTIVALS
Pongal, the most important festival
of the Tamils, is celebrated in mid-January every year.
The festival is celebrated amidst gaiety and joy not
only in Tamil Nadu but also in most parts of South India.
Mahabalipuram Dance Festival is an occasion for the
dance lovers to enjoy the performances of the artists
from all parts of the country. The festival is celebrated
in the month of January/February every year. The Shore
Temple forms the backdrop of this festival and the music
from the musical instruments mixes with the natural
music of wind and the sea. The Mahabalipuram Dance festival
is an occasion when artists from all over the country
come together to perform.
The Sthalasayana Perumal temple festivals, Masimagam
and Brahmothsavam, are held in the month of March.
SHOPPING
Mahabalipuram has kept alive and, to
a great extent, revived the ancient art of stonemasons
and sculptures. The sculptors in various yards work
to carve beautiful shape and size from stone. They receive
contract from all over India and abroad to supply images
of various kinds. These images include deities for temples
and other forms for restoration works. One can buy these
images and statues at several handicraft emporia scattered
around the city.
Some marvelously carved images of Hindu gods are also
offered in the shops. These carvings may be in soap
stone or on wood. Jewelry and other items are also available.
One can also buy decorative items made from seashells.
WHERE TO STAY
Several types of accommodation options,
from economy to high-end, are available in Mahabalipuram.
The best option is to check into one of the several
beach resorts spread across the town. However, it is
necessary to have prior reservation in most cases.
HOW TO REACH
The nearest airport from Mahabalipuram
is Chennai (Madras), located around 60 km away. One
can get flights for almost all major destinations in
India and abroad.
The nearest railway station, Chengalpattu, is around
29 km away from Mahabalipuram. Trains for Chennai and
several other major cities in South India are available
from here.
Mamallapuram is connected by road to Chennai, Tirukkalikundram
(Pakshithirtham), Kanchipuram (65 km), and Pondicherry.
Tourist taxis can be hired from Madras to Kanchipuram.
Taxis and cycle rickshaws are also available on hire
for local transport.
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