| FACTS
& FIGURES
Area
: 104.82 sq km
Population : 1,057,972
Languages : Hindi & English
Literacy : 51.4%
Best time to visit : October to March
STD code : 0542
LOCATION
Varanasi (also Benaras) is located in the north Indian
state of Uttar Pradesh and extends latitude 25°20'
N and longitude 83°00' E. Sandwiched between the
rivers Varuna and Ashi as they join the Ganges, Varanasi
takes its name from its location. It is also called
Kashi, the city of light, but the British, in an endeavor
to simplify matters, had coined their own name for the
place—Benaras. For a relatively short period,
while under Mughal rule, Varanasi was also known as
Muhammadabad.
Modern-day Varanasi is situated along the west bank
of the Ganges (also Ganga) and extends into a myriad
collection of narrow lanes that form an integral part
of it. The city winds itself around these vines of communication,
stretching from one ghat to the other.
CLIMATE
Because of its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer, Varanasi
enjoys a pleasant winter with a daytime temperature
of around 20°C. The temperature can touch a low
of around 10°C in late December and January with
heavy fog in the early part of the day. October–November
and February–March are usually comfortable and
sunny.
The summer season is, however, harsh in Varanasi. Beginning
in April and continuing through June, it is extremely
dry and daytime temperatures often climb up to as high
as 45°C.
The monsoon season, which starts by late June or early
July, brings torrential rains and high humidity to the
city. By late September, however, the weather returns
to a comfortable level.
HISTORY
Almost midway in its long journey from the slopes of
the mighty Himalayas to the inflamed shore of Bay of
Bengal, the muddy waters of the Ganges flow by a city
that is five centuries older than Christ. The city finds
mention in the great epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana.
It was already an old city when Rome was founded, and
was a flourishing center of trade when Buddha came to
Sarnath, some 10 km away, to preach his first sermon
in 500 bc. It is a city of temples and for more than
2,500 years, it has attracted pilgrims from near and
far. According to Hindu belief, Benaras or Varanasi
as it is known, is the cosmic center of the Universe.
The renowned American novelist Mark Twain once wrote,
"Benaras is older than history, older than tradition,
older even than legend and looks twice as old as all
of them put together."
Down the ages, Varanasi has stood as a symbol of Hindu
renaissance. Swathed in an aura of history, religion,
and tradition, Varanasi preserved the rituals and traditions
of Hindu philosophy. From a time stretching beyond human
memory, pilgrims from distant lands have come to Varanasi
in search of divine blessings.
SITES TO VISIT
The numerous ghats along the bank of the Ganges present
a varied scene from dawn to dusk. A ghat is a series
of well-paved steps that lead to the water. A ghat in
Varanasi usually has small temples built into its side,
while the larger structures, housing the powerful gods
and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon, form a formidable
backdrop to the serene beauty of the meandering river.
These ghats numbering more than a hundred, with their
entourage of temples, form the axis on which the city
developed. For centuries, the Hindus considered it very
auspicious to bathe at the ghats of Varanasi. Everyday
at dawn thousands of pilgrims can be seen offering salutations
to the Sun God in waist-deep water, secure in their
conviction that the muddy waters of the Ganges will
wash away all the accumulated sins of their life. The
oil lamps (diyas) and flowers set afloat on the river
at dusk make a fascinating sight.
There are five important ghats in Varanasi where the
pilgrims flock to take a bath—the Assi, Dasawamedha,
Barnasangam, Panchganga, and Manikarnika. Each ghat
has its own history and its own following. Many of the
ghats were built and owned by the royal families of
India; the Maharaja of Benaras built the Kali (or Sivala)
Ghat, Maharaja Man Singh built the Mansarovar Ghat,
while Ahilyabai Ghat is named after that legendary Queen
Ahilyabai of Indore.
The best time to visit the ghats is at the break of
dawn, when pilgrims perform the Surya Pranam immersed
waist deep in the waters of the holy Ganges.
The best way to catch the essence of Varanasi is to
travel down the Ganges by boat at six o’clock
in the morning. Boats can be hired by the hour from
the main steps of the Dasawamedha Ghat. The steady creek
of ancient oars, the slap of wet garments, incessant
chatter of the bathers amid a tinkling of scattered
temple bells, watching Varanasi from the environs of
a gently swaying boat is truly an experience worth treasuring.
Although Varanasi is famous as a Hindu pilgrimage center,
one cannot ignore its distinct Muslim heritage. The
powerful Sultans of Delhi and later the emperors of
the Mughal dynasty were instrumental in constructing
several mosques, and this predominantly Hindu city gradually
attained a degree of cosmopolitanism. Aurangzeb, the
last of the mighty Mughals, hastened this process of
evolution and the mosques that he built still stand
today. The great mosque of Varanasi, Gyanvyapi Masjid,
has minarets towering 71 m above the Ganges and is an
integral part of the city's skyline.
There is also the Golden Temple, dedicated to Lord
Shiva. The temple today sits across the road from its
original site. The present temple was built in 1776
by Rani Ahilyabai, while three and a quarter ton of
gold plating on the towers were provided by Maharaja
Ranjit Singh of Lahore. Next to the temple is the Well
of Knowledge, where, as legend goes, the original Shiva
lingam lies hidden.
There is another temple in this holy city—a temple
dedicated not to the gods, but to Mother India. The
Bharat Mata temple, as it is known, does not have idols
or images of gods and goddesses: what it has is a marble
relief map of Independent India. The father of the nation,
Mahatma Gandhi, inaugurated the temple.
Benaras Hindu University is the largest residential
university in Asia, a center of Sanskrit, Indian art,
culture, and music. This university covers an area of
2000 acres, and was gifted by the king of Varanasi,
a scholar of Sanskrit and Hindu philosopher himself.
The university is around 10 km from the railway station.
Of the numerous temples that dot this ancient city,
the important ones are the Durga Temple, Tulsi Manas
Mandir, Vinayaka Temple, Annapurna Temple, Kal Bhairav,
Jateshwar Mahadeo, and Maha Mritunjaya Temple.
SITES NEARBY
A tourist to Varanasi must make it a point to visit
the Ramnagar Fort and Sarnath, both situated on the
outskirts of this city. The former, situated on the
opposite bank of the Ganges, is the residential palace
of the former Maharaja of Varanasi. The hall of public
audience (Durbar Hall) and the royal museum housing
collections of palanquins, elephant saddles, arms, furniture,
costumes, etc., are of great interest.
At the other end of the city is Sarnath. Here in the
fabled deer park, where the Buddha preached his sermon
enshrining the principles of his teaching into laws.
There is a stupa and a large complex of ruined monasteries.
Nearby also stands the Ashoka Pillar commemorating the
Mauryan emperor’s visit to the place more than
2,000 years back. The archeological museum located nearby
holds a rich collection of items belonging to the Kushan
and Gupta periods as well as from the Ashokan era.
One may also undertake quite a few enjoyable excursions
from Varanasi. The fort of Chunar, about 37 km away,
is famous for its close association with the Afghan
ruler Sher Shah Suri. Kusumi Forest (8 km) and the Rajdari
and Deodari Falls in the Chandraprabha forest (70 km)
are beautiful picnic spots.
SHOPPING
The rustle of silk, the sheen of pure gold, the magical
weave, and the gentle tugs on sitar strings—the
shopping experience at Varanasi transcends time and
space. Magical and mystical as the holy city itself,
even shopping here is done with reverence to the exquisite
craft and the craftsmen.
Benarasi silks and brocades are famous all over India.
Brides resplendent in silken wonders from Varanasi are
only some from a multitude who have Benarasi shopping
to sport and show-off. Besides intricate and expensive
wedding silks, Varanasi also boasts of fine silk with
very little dazzle of gold. However, silken saris are
not the only shopping to be done here. Rich brocades
are part of an ancient weaving tradition. Yards and
yards of plain and printed silks and brocades adorn
the shop windows and racks. A shopping experience that
is unique to Varanasi alone is the Saree Satti of Kunj
Gali. In this street, silk and brocade saris are actually
auctioned. Primarily a wholesale outlet, individual
buyers too are served with the same aplomb and style
by these commission agents.
For those with a musical bent, the city of music maestros
like Ravi Shankar and Ustad Bismillah Khan boasts of
skillfully designed sitars (a stringed musical instrument).
A city with a long history of music, Varanasi also offers
various other musical instruments to the tourists—tabla,
pakhawaj, shehnai, to name a few.
FAIRS AND FESTIVALS The festive magic never ends in
Varanasi. If Poornima cleanses, Maha Shivratri blesses.
If Holika-Dahan is a celebration, Dhrupad Mela is a
revelation…. One does not require making his itinerary
according to the dates and months of the festivals.
One can come and enjoy the festive season anytime of
the year here.
FOOD
Benarasi mithais (sweets) and the famous Benarasi paan
(betel leaf) are two specialties that can be found in
this magical city. Both are very dear to the people—traditional
and crucial to the social system—far beyond the
simple act of cooking, preparing, and eating.
Milk-based sweets are flavored with cardamon, saffron,
essence of rose extract, a garnish of nuts, and a fine
layer of edible silver foil. Layers of fresh cream lovingly
embrace dry fruits that are hidden in the interiors
of malai paan. Thickened milk is left out in the dew
overnight and then flavored with saffron. This mix is
then beaten to a stiff froth—it would put any
soufflé to shame. Nimmish is undisputedly a delicacy
only for the well to do and that too only in winter.
The Benarasi paan is a very heavily flavored betel
leaf smeared with catechu (a tannin rich powder called
katha), lime paste (chuna), and wrapped around shredded
betel nut (supari) and often cardamom pod, aniseed and
tobacco. Secured by a clove pierced through the folds
of the betel leaf, sweetening agents, peppermint, menthol,
and local aphrodisiacs are also added to this elaborate
package. Given the acclaimed digestive qualities of
all ingredients, it is a perfect way to round off a
good and wholesome Indian meal (though most people have
a paan safely tucked away into the recesses of their
mouth perpetually).
WHAT TO DO
Boating in the Ganges and moving around the ghats are
experiences of a lifetime. Excursions around the city
and inside the narrow streets of Varanasi bring to mind
the heritage and culture that India has went through
the ages.
WHERE TO STAY
Accommodation is not a problem in Varanasi. Hotels
ranging from high-end to economy class are all available.
Many of them have magnificent views of the Ganges in
exclusive suites.
HOW TO REACH
Varanasi is well connected by air to several cities
in India. It is on the popular daily tourist service
Delhi–Agra–Khajuraho–Varanasi route.
Varanasi has two railway stations—Kashi and Varanasi
Junction (also Cantonment Station). The Rajdhani Express
from Delhi or from Calcutta is your best bet to reach
Varanasi in 8–9 hours. Even though there are not
many trains running directly between Delhi and Varanasi,
most Delhi–Calcutta trains pass through Mughalsarai,
which is 10 km south of Varanasi. For local transport,
city buses, taxis, and auto-rickshaws are available.
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